We see a lot of unique jewelry come through Olufson Designs. Whether it’s a piece in our famed estate case, a piece we’ve repaired or a piece being evaluated, antiques and family heirlooms are a common sight within the walls of our shop. These pieces also come with the opportunity for research and education. I personally do research into antiquated uses of gemstones (good, bad and ugly), which you may have seen on our Facebook and Instagram pages, where not only pieces of jewelry are on display but there are fun facts about the gems in the featured piece.
The most intriguing of all these old styles has been Art Deco, which was the popular style of jewelry in the 1920s-1930s. These pieces have stunning geometric design elements with an overall air of elegance that make a statement no matter the time period. Some designers still take inspiration from this era in modern designs, using current technologies and methods to create these unique pieces. However, there’s something touching about the antique pieces and knowing that some of them were hand-fabricated with the precision only a highly skilled jeweler can apply rather than a machine that mass produces pieces inspired by the past.
There was a focus on bold colors and brilliantly cut diamonds in Art Deco jewelry. Often these pieces are set in white metals (platinum and white gold), which highlight the colored gemstones but still allows the metalwork to make its own statement with intricate, geometric designs. Emerald, blue sapphire and diamond seem to be among the most popular gemstones in these pieces, though some of these specimens actually have faceted colored glass or contain synthetic gemstones. This would have kept both the cost of production and sale of the piece at a more affordable price for the everyday buyer. At the time of the Jazz Age, women particularly were celebrating their newfound freedoms in a post-war society. The jewelry of the time reflected this, as well as the accessories. These pieces were made for daytime wear during leisurely activities, including exercise, and could also be used for a night out on the town. Enameled compacts and gemstone inlaid cigarette cases were among some of these accessories for nights out while diamond encrusted barrettes were used to pin one’s hair back during a fun round of tennis with friends. These pieces were no doubt used as transitional “day-to-night” wear to be worn on the courts or at a dinner with friends. This versatility in jewelry and accessories lasted through the Great Depression as well, when convertible jewelry came into trend. Large, elaborate brooches encrusted in gemstones that could be separated into two collar or sweater clips were among these trendy convertible pieces that Depression Era women adored. The jewelry also became larger– though still remained practical– once the Great Depression hit, something that is theorized to be an attempt to keep morale up during times of socioeconomic hardship.
While we mainly think of The Great Gatsby in association with art deco designs, there was a lot of inspiration taken from Egyptian and East Asian art and jewelry. This happened while western European and American jewelry design was also being utilized in India, China and Japan, most likely due to trade, media and travel. The Egyptian Revival came while archaeological digs in the tombs of Pharaohs, particularly Tutankhamen, were being done, effectively bringing ancient styles— like the scarab beetle— back into trend. Carved and cabochon cut jade also became popular, not just in jewelry but also in the cigarette cases that were previously mentioned. Not only was this jewelry a symbol of social status and luxury, but some held cultural or even religious significance… Though it may not have necessarily been in the same belief system as the wearer, who wore the piece purely for aesthetics. This still rings true with trends today where symbols like ornate crosses, the Ankh and pentagrams are staples of gothic fashion even if they don’t align with the beliefs of the wearer. Time, technology and fashion choices may separate us, but some trends are due to repeat over the decades.
Some trends are lost to time while others become classics and staples of the average jewelry box. Art Deco, while an acquired taste, is still popular in jewelry design and other aspects of our daily lives. It seems like everyone reads The Great Gatsby at some point in school or for leisure, reveling in the luxurious aspects of the era, which can even inspire prom or wedding themes. Trend cycles are always bound to repeat and hopefully we will begin to see a resurgence of these intricate styles soon.
Resources
Lang Antiques; https://www.langantiques.com/knowledge/periods; found on April 30, 2023.