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Prong seats: a prong should have the seat cut for the dimensions of your particular gemstone and hug it at all contact points. In addition to having your prongs hug the gemstone, be sure your gem is set straight. See figures #2
Undercarriage: an undercarriage is the area under the main feature of a ring (or pendant). This area is the number one area that manufacturers conserve metal if they are trying to cut corners and keep a price point low. This area can often be sharp when putting the ring on, but if you see lattice work, that will be the feel of quality. See figures #3
Metal surrounding gems: You should have enough metal on all sides to provide structural integrity to the piece. Without it your piece will bend and break or at a minimum lose gems frequently due to the metal shifting.
Chains and earrings often come in for repairs too.
Jump rings: jump rings are the little circles/loops that your clasp latches on to for securing. These jump rings should be soldered closed to provide long lasting integrity. Some chain links also need to be soldered closed lest the chain breaks at that weak junction.
Lobster versus spring ring: a lobster claw clasp also supports quality over a spring ring. Lobster claw clasps provide greater security and can be a lot easier to open and close because the lever is spring loaded and will close on its own when released. Spring ring clasps also are spring loaded, but the male portion must close into the lumen of the other end, and that does not always happen. See figure #4
Hollow versus solid items: large chain links and hoop earrings are often hollow so the weight doesn’t drag on the earlobe or neck. While this makes sense for some hoop earrings, the metal for quality jewelry should be at least a heavier gauge to prevent easy denting. Once again, manufacturers will try to save gold to keep the cost down, but at the cost to the consumer with denting. See figure #5
Other areas that manufacturers try to skimp, but jewelers really have to be transparent about is plated gold and gemstones.
Full karated gold versus plated gold: plated gold (gold filled, vermeil) is typically over an inexpensive base metal versus 14 karat or 18 karat gold. Plating does wear off with time depending on the thickness whereas a full karated gold will last much longer and look much nicer. Note: Rhodium plating is used to enhance the color of white gold, but it doesn’t affect the quality or cost.
Natural gemstones, versus synthetic or imitation: synthetic gemstones are gems that are manmade yet still have the same chemical structure as a natural gem. Imitation gems are assembled gems that can be made of nearly anything but resemble a specific gem. A natural gem comes out of the ground and then cut to shape. Remember that high quality jewelry will fit the ring to the proportions of a cut gemstone, NOT the other way around unless it is a calibrated size like 8 x 6 mm or 9 x 7 mm.
Regardless of the quality, you will always get a piece of jewelry to last longer if you care for it properly. Some ways to properly care for jewelry are to not wear it to bed, get inspected and cleaned at least a couple times a year, and don’t wear it in contact with chemicals such as chlorinated pool water, or home cleaning detergents.
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